Wednesday, June 30, 2010
itinerary change
I am in Antigua again. It feels nice to return to a place I am familar with and really like. Not to mention the delicious banana bread they have here.
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Protip
San Pedro La Laguna Recap and Preview
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Protips
2. Donn't buy cameras that use double A batteries. Use lithium batteries, they will cost less.
3. Don´t buy batteries in small towns in guatemala, even if they look legitimate. I bought 10 double A's and none of them work, the only reason my camera is working right now is cuz I had one single double A from Hawaii in my bag to use with a local battery.
4. fresh watercress(?) + good tomatoes + lemon juice+ lime juice + salt + onions = delicious salad
5. Say grace before meals, it makes you a better person.
I've seen...
Wanted: good home for orphaned punchline...
met family first time, saw cute daughter, met father later, father is evangelical pastor, lol'ed.
Friday
On friday, we were invited to a birthday party for the daughter of the host parents. We had tamales and delicious cake. There were lots of people there. Us, other students, friends of the family etc... afterwards went to the town center for a "festival". There is a week long festival happening now, friday night they chose the Queen, on Sunday they crown her, and onTuesday they do something else that is suppose to be really festive.
So, I am going to stick around in San Pedro until wednesday to participate in the festival. Street food, cerveza's, dancing and music... There are worse ways to pass a few days.
Thursday
after horsey ride, it was salsa class. The salsa class was really fun, I was there with some really cool girls, and they were all better at salsa than me. One girl was amazing, she could dice an entire tomato in about two seconds. This other girl showed me a really cool trick to dice an onion and always get perfectly shaped pieces. I'm definitley going to do more salsa when I get home.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Untitled (work in progress)
escape by metamorphosis.
You live in a vacation,
but forgot the context.
Oh! What our lives are worth.
To be a queen, just dance in rain.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Irony
Iro·ny. Pronunciation: \'i-re-ni also 'i(-e)r-ne\. Noun. To make the mistake of referring to a night out with Israeli's as cognitive dissonance when it would be more appropriately called fun.
or
Iro·ny. Pronunciation: \'i-re-ni also 'i(-e)r-ne\. Noun. To be a Palestinian while Israelis live under a "threat" of rocket attack.
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
Cognitive Dissonance
"you live in a vacation"
Climbing through the mountains of Atitlan
Monday, June 21, 2010
San Pedro La Laguna, Lake Atitlan
I ordered a lemonade that I think was made from tap water. The ice cubes were cube shaped. I drank it anyway. I'm not sick today so I guess I got lucky there. I didn't eat much yesterday, luckily I was able to survive off half a loaf of delicous banana bread I brought with me from a famous bakery in Antigua.
After Chichi, we reached Panajachel. From Pana, I caught a boat across the lake to San Pedro. It was a choppy ride, but the lake region is beautiful. The lake towns are nothing like Antigua. They lack the lovely old colonial design. In fact it is kind of ghetto. The main gringo strip is a weird dirth path road that winds through a residential area but is full of bars and restaurants and such.
When I arrived, i decided to stay at a hotel for the night and register for spanish school en la mañana. I was happy cuz I got to relax in my room and watch TV. I saw As Good As It Gets (with Helen Hunt and Jack Nicholson), The Watchmen, and parts of a movie called The Reader (with Kate Winslet). I passed out asleep, but I think there were two minor earthquakes overnight. I woke up twice to the building rumbling and shaking, it was very brief though. I guess I shouldn't be surprised, Atitlan is surrounded by volcanoes after all.
today, i got to meet my host family, i had a delicous lunch of spaghetti with tomato and basil and guacamole with tortillas (I'm glad I get to eat all this guacamoe while i am here). The food and accomodations here was way better than what I got in Antigua. I met a few of the other students at the house, all of them well-traveled chicas.
Sunday, June 20, 2010
ask and you shall receive
Saturday, June 19, 2010
Random thoughts
The pic above is from the rooftop terrace of Cafe Sky. That volcano is Volcan de Agua, the church is San Fransisco church.
Another one of the ruins around Antigua. If you are into ruins, this city is for you.
Walking around Parque Central at 11pm (not the safest thing to do) trying to score some stuff with a drunk crazy french girl who would sporadically yell "fuck!" because the Celtics lost to the goddamn Lakers.
Maybe I should get Facebook...I'm burning bridges before even crossing them.
Them: "do you have facebook?"
Me: "No."
-end conversation-
I am surprised by how much spanish I picked up from just one week of lessons. I am far from fluent but the basics and base i picked up is pretty impressive for one week. maybe i'm just fucking muy intelligente.
Itinerary:
Going to go to Lake Atitlan tomorrow. Going to catch a shuttle in ANtigua and go to Chichicastenango first to check out the huge market they have on sundays, then from Chichi to Panajachel, from Panajachel catch a boat across the lake to San Pedro La Laguna and stay in a hostel and then go to my spanish school on monday.
Protip: Salina Cruz Mexico to Tapachula To Guatemala City to Antigua
There are lots of guatemalan money changers around the border. If you wanted to you could change money with them, but be aware you are changing money with unofficial strangers on the border. You need to pay Q10 (or you can pay 20 pesos) for the guatemalan entry visa.
after the mexico visa, the guate visa and passing through the hordes of money changers, you get back on your bus a little further down the road. Enjoy the beautiful ride for the 5 or 6 hours because once you get into Guatemala City you have to be on guard. I didn’t change money at the border. I found a couple of ATMs in the gas station right across the street from the Tikal Bus station. This was on Calzada Aguilar Bartres, it is the street on the border between zona 11 and zona 12.
From the bus station, I took a cab to the chicken bus station that goes to Antigua. it was Q40 for the taxi ride. You could just try to find the route that the bus travels and jump on the chicken bus from the street, but going straight to the station you can get a good seat. The bus will get full to standing room only or three to a seat. I paid Q50 to the chicken bus for the 1.5 hour ride to Antigua.
Once in Antigua, you are safe. Don´t listen to the hawkers trying to convince you to go to their school or hotel because it “owned by real local guatemalans” instead of gringo expats.
Random advice: In Antigua, all Tuk Tuk rides within the main city area is Q10, if you ask first, they may quote you 15, just get in the tuk tuk and when you arrive, just pay Q10. If you want drugs, go to the shoe shiners in Parque Central. Best coffee in town is at El Portal right in Parque Central, or Fernando’s Kaffee around Campo Seco street on the edge of town. La Union Spanish School is great, very well organized, take the morning class cuz it has more students to mingle with and you get time for activities during the day. Staying with a local family is a subjective choice. The family you get may not feed you particularily well and the accomodations may not be the best…I guess “authentic “would be the optimistic way of describing the local family experience. I ended up spending a lot of money eating out because the food outside was better and more interesting. so, if you don’t like the family, you end up paying for a room that is marginally cheaper than a hostel, and food that may dissapoint.
Antigua is expensive, don't expect third world prices in this city.
Friday, June 18, 2010
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
La Corrida del Torros: or Why Do I Do These Things?
Went to a “running of the bulls” on tuesday with my spanish school. It was part of a week of celebrations in the country side for some religious saint. There was a big corral made out of logs, vines and nylon twine. I took one look at the scene and knew I was going to have to get in on the action. So when they started running the bulls, I climbed into the big pen and took my place among the guatemalans. Heard lots of shouts/murmurs of “chino!”. I was the only Chinese guy there and the only one among our group of students that went in.
The first bull was kind of dull, it was too scared, i think. the second bull was much more exciting. when ever the bull ran one way, the entire crowd of guys would start swinging around in teh opposite direction in a giant swirling mass of bodies. It’s a lot like a mosh pit, but probably safer than a mosh pit. There were a couple of times when I found myself the last guy between the bull and the rest of the crowd because of ignorance, stupidity and a gimp foot, those were the best moments of course. but all in all, i don’t think it was that dangerous.
I took a lot of pics while inside the pen and shot one video of me running from the bull. It has a blair witch project style of cinematography, and I think it communicates really well the experience of running away from a raging bull. I can’t upload it to the blog right now, email me if you want it.
This big brown bull was HUGE. I'm glad I didn't have to deal with him. This is the one whose ass i slapped so it may have held a grudge against me, the chino who slapped his ass.
Random Thoughts and Monday
Haven't been punishing my liver. I've been letting my liver get away with a stern warning and a slap on the wrist.
I regret giving my rain jacket to justin to take home for me.
On monday, my first day of spanish class, I took a school excursion to a NGO school for under privileged kids in the countryside. It was your typical cinder block bunker with tin roof and exposed wiring. very much like what you see in those "sponsor a child for a dollar a day" info-mericals. Later that day, I took a salsa class. That was fun. "mas sexy!"
My guatemalan family is pretty skint. i had nachos for dinner my first night. Nachos. I'm a grown man, eating nachos for dinner is inappropriate. I don't know if they are really poor or are trying to save money by feeding us less. The house is very "authentic". I'm not complaining because "authentic" is what I wanted. My host mom is very nice, kind of cute actually.
Every day, every hour here is like the first day of classes in college. You have they exact same conversation over and over again: "what's your name?" "where are you from?" "hows your spanish?" "how long are you here for?" "how long have you been here?" "what do you do?" "whats your major?" etc.... But you do meet really cool and interesting people. As a whole, the backpacker group is more interesting than the general population. Lots of people doing righteous volunteer work, lots of people having mid-20s/mid-30's/mid-40's life crisises (like me), lots of students from all over the world and the States.
I win, John.
Obligatory pìc of cat living with us. His name is Gordo.
I love how all the exteriors of buildins in Antigua look alike, but you never know what you will find once you walk through the doorway. Door number 1 might be a ghetto guatemalan home like the one I am staying in (see pic above), door number 2 might be a quaint little alleyway (see below) and who knows what is behind door number 3, the mystery door. Is it going to be a beautiful courtyard, a boutique hotel, a cafe or something else?
Also, I found out that the alarm clock we were using when in Mexico was set to 5 hours ahead, when the time difference was only 4 hours. I think we were living an hour ahead of the actual time the whole trip and we didn´t even notice. lol. BUT, the alarm clock seemed to be at the right time in Salina Cruz so I don´t know what the fuck happened.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Antigua Guatemala
This is at La Caterdal ruins. trying to get artsy with my pocket digital camera.
I stumbled into a church service at the La Merced Church. Had to stand for the opening hymns. the hymns were weird, they had a guitary, pop sound to them.
Some of the cool architecture from the old ruins around town. This was La Caterdal. worth every penny of my $3.00 quetzals.
Had one of the best cups of coffee ever at Fernandos Kaffee. Cool little place with a cool little courtyard.
All the streets look exactly like this. Everything is laid out in a grid pattern. Though all the store fronts look like this, once you walk in through the door ways, you´ll find beautiful cafes and restaruants and shops. Many of these buildings are actually single units with center courtyards with fountains and gardens and such. I could walk around all day, if my foot wasn´t so sore from the 14 hour bus ride. Damn those quaint cobblestone streets!
Some of the architecture around town. This is the San Fransisco Church.
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Guatemala Day One: saw a dead body.
The border between mexico and guatemala is pretty crazy. I got caught up in a scuffle at the mexican immigration office, an old man who apparently didn´t have his credentials was being thrown out the door just as I was walking in. He got a death grip on my arm. He must have been a laborer cuz he was strong. I just sort of held onto the wall and let the security peel the guy off me.
Then, as I was getting my mexican departure stamp on my passport, I ended up having to pay 200 pesos in a "non-immigration" fee. I'm pretty sure that was a fake fee. The sign they had posted up said 262 pesos. But the guy just took my 200 and told me that was okay. This unexpected fee sort of put me in the red. I didn´t have enough pesos to pay for bus ride. But luckily, the bus conductor took $USD. Good old greenbacks, god bless America!
Had to fend off a horde of guatemalan money changers as I got my Guatemalan entry visa after leaving the mexican side of the border. Then got back on my bus. The drive through guatemala to the city was beautiful. gorgeous. verdant. lush. green. Then I saw the dead guy. Then we arrived at Guate City.
I took one look around at the sprawling chaos around me and made a tactical decision to not try for Pacaya volcano right now. I may try for it after I get two weeks of spanish school and Guate experience under my belt. I need more hair on my chest.
So, I caught a chicken bus up to Antigua as soon as I could. The chicken bus ride wasn't bad. my ass started to hurt after a while, but it wasn't terrible.
Antigua is a beautiful city. They have some amazing cafes, restaurants, art galleries and bars. the really nice ones are way out of my budget but would be a great experience if you just wanted to splurge. the weather here is perfectly cool, it was pretty rainy in the late afternoon.
What a day.
Friday, June 11, 2010
Mucho Gracias Mi Amigos...
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Is there anybody out there?
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
WHAT THE FUCK AM I DOING?!?!?!?!!
Scorpions in Mexico
The Horror.
Justin Getting It
Justing getting a sweet little barrel at Chibo. I had a fun session this day as well. Got barrelled, would piss my pants while walking back to the peak (like a race horse), singing/screaming Papa Was a Rodeo in the water and forgetting the lyrics, have a mid-session beer, get smoked out by a couple of local kids after....good times.
Salina Cruz
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Soul to Squeeze
Monday, June 7, 2010
Look at this crazy picture!!!
Federales
Friday, June 4, 2010
Mint Mojitos and Broken Ankles
The bad news is, I jumped off a wall while trying to make a trick basketball shot and kind of fucked up my foot. It´s not broken, but it might as well be. I´m hobbling pretty bad right now. Fuck. I´m stupid.
Update: I took this pic on saturday night, a day after I hurt my foot. Today is Monday. It is actually healing way better than I could have hoped for. I willed my body to heal. I kept telling my body/mind, "heal, heal, heal. You're only 26, heal!" and it seems to have worked. I thought i was going to be useless the whole week, but i think at this rate, i should be walking normal by wednesday, hopefully.
A typical day in Puerto
Then we sit around all day in the hammock and do nothing. we have lazy desultory conversations, maybe take a nap. Maybe we´ll chat with the Aussies, or the Irish girls. I´ve developed a pretty mean 1,000 yard stare from my time zoning out in the hammock. I just stare off into deep space, looking towards the ocean.
then, if the winds are right, we will go out for an evening session. Then back to the cabana, then out to dinner for hamburgers on the beach, or burritos or tacos or other delicous foodstuff.
then (if it´s going to be one of those nights) out for one drink that turns into 9 or 10.
Thursday, June 3, 2010
Another Mezcal Sunrise Part 3: The Morning After
Another Mezcal Sunrise Part 2: Do Not Be Misled by the Picture
Answer: They never close. lol.
This girl´s name was Malu. She´s a 20 year old tech-house(?) DJ. She travels around Mexico playing gigs. Pretty amazing, I think. She speaks as much english as I do Spanish, I don´t know how we communicated that night.
Another Mezcal Sunrise Part 1: The Evening
The salsa bar.
Two of the Irish girls in the dawn light. Aileen on left, Nicki on right
John, Matus the bartender , me and our crotches.