Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Leon Guatemala: July 22, 2010
we came to a slow stop at the bottom and she was about to passionately kiss me when, ironically, those two victory shots I fired into the air came back down and killed the princess, and broke the Chalice of Eternal Life in my hand. That's a bummer, but it was a cool experience and it makes a good story, i guess. I'll post pics of all this later.
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
chicken bus poetry
Calle pero elegante
Mis mejores momentos fueron contigo
donde hubo fuego cenizas quedan
Monday, July 19, 2010
Small world
another story about this small world of ours: I was in a shuttle on my way to Flores/Tikal with these three guys. two of them were from london and there was anothe girl on the shuttle from london as well. they started talking and they found out that she used to live on the same street as they did. and apparently, the guys had a friend who had a cat that ran away. Turns out, this girl (they never met before) took that cat in and adopted it. How crazy is that? strangers from london discovering a connection because of a cat on a shuttle bus in the middle of Guatemala.
One of the best part of hostel living is the scantily clad sweaty sleeping female bodies, you can see everything.
Leon, Nicaragua
If I hadn't gotten sick I might have been able to make it to the weekly Sunday Chicken fight I heard about from a guy named Mike (whom I had met at El Tunco and is at Leon now). Normally I don't approve of those kinds of things, but i'd do it for the experience.
Leaving El Tunco
But at least the 8.5 hour bus ride to Leon was great. it was one of those morale boosting things. It was worth every dollar of the $51 bucks i paid. i rode a Kind Quality bus, there were seven other people on the bus so I had rows of seats to myself. The bus served two sandwhich "meals", two snacks with coffee, there was too-cold air conditioning, there were movies (i watched Taken with Liam Neeson and Panic Room and two other movies i didn't pay attention to) and a bathroom on the bus. It was heavenly compared to 8 hour shuttle rides stuck in the seat between the driver and passenger seat.
And the border crossings were ridiculous. The border officials come to you inside the bus and check your passport. You never have to leave the bus. It was luxurious.
El Tunco:friday
Picture of us cooking in the hostel kitchen


El Tunco: Friday
Theres not much to do in El Tunco in the eveings, so luckily I've been watching movies at this bar/restaurant called Al Suave. I watched Sherlock Holmes and Inglourious Basterds, the past couple nights. and listened to pink floyd's The Wall. weird.
El Tunco: Crossroads




El Tunco: Wednesday



Friday, July 16, 2010
Surfer Mode: Engaged
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
La Libertad, El Salvador

What a shithole. La Libertad the city, La Libertad the beach and the hostel Im staying at. The hostel is awful and full of mosquitoes, luckily I had my mosquito net so I McGyvered up my bed. I knew there was a reason I was dragging that net around central america.

I walked around trying to get a bodyboard (i found only one in this entire shithole city that is supposed to be a surf mecca) and ended up following a kid who took me to this sketchy shanty town right past town and in front of Punta Roca. He showed me this ridiculous board that was so old and water logged it weighed more than a longboard. The kids proudly pointed out the plastic they stuck into the bottom of the board as makeshift fins. I tried not to laugh and told them I would come back if I decided I needed it. The pic below of the yellow board is of the board they tried to sell me. they were in teh water while i was eating lunch.
I checked out Punta Roca and it looked like it had potential. the winds were on shore, but it looked like it could line up really nicely (a la J-Bay) on the right swell and wind direction. I was planning on buying a board this morning and going out if it looked good but I couldnt wake up in time for the morning glass, when I did get up the winds were already mucking up the wave. The water in the bay is disgusting, I dont want to know what kind of shit gets thrown in the rivers upstream. the water is brownish with lots of little pieces of plastic trash floating in it, the shore is all black boulders. But Im pretty sure the current pushes it all away from Punta Roca.
I am going to go to El Tunco in a couple of hours, I heard there are lots of boards for rent and sale there as well as good waves as well as good hotels. I will probably stop by Libertad on my way back and I may try to surf punta roca then.
Monday, July 12, 2010
16 Killed In El Salvador Bus Attack
The attacks represented a dramatic surge in ongoing street violence attributed largely to gangs but exacerbated lately by a growing presence of drug traffickers, authorities say. Police say gangs have been demanding protection money from bus companies, and major criminal forces, including drug cartels, are believed to be recruiting gang members to do their dirty work.
- Los Angeles Times
One of the funnest parts of hostel living is waiting for other backpackers to leave and seeing if they dropped any loot.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
So Happy
Simple things like a clean room can be revitalizing for morale after a long bus ride with nothing to eat for ten and a half hours but 40 ounces of water and a vegetarian sandwhich. The bus ride itself wasn't so bad because it was never super crowded so I had plenty of space to stretch out. However, the ride would have taken much less time if the driver hadn't stopped so often for pick ups and drop offs. Apparently it works like this:
executive buses: busliner AC, bathroom, sometimes food, direct to destination
2d class: busliner, no AC, no bathroom, stops frequently
chicken bus: converted school bus for local use, three to a seat, exhaust fumes, etc...
The bus I had, which was the only option from Flores to El Salvador, was basically a chicken bus considering all the dark skinned people (with chickens... real live chickens) it picked up along the way.
tomorrow I am going to try to catch a chicken bus to La Libertad and try to bodyboard and/or surf Punta Roca and the other breaks there.
James: A republican? she can take her Miss Bay Area crown, her dinner and her self-defeating illogical worldview and shove it up her culo.
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Saturday and Flores to El Savlador
I got my haircut today for Q25. there were three barbers we checked out yesterday, one cost Q10, one cost Q20 and the last Q25. I decided to go with the Q25 place because the two guys who worked there looked gay. You can never go wrong with a gay hairstylist, that’s the way i see it. the other two places didn’t look as professional either.
I bought my bus ticket to El Salvador for tomorrow morning at 6am, it cost Q220 and will be about a 9 hour ride. But when somebody here says “9 hours”, it usually means 11 or 12 hours. I wasn’t planning to stop in El Salvador or Honduras, but I decided since my bus connection was in the capital city, San Salvador, I might as well spend a few days at the world class surf breaks near the city. So I will stop in San Salvador for a night probably on Sunday, then go to the city of La Libertad on Monday morning and either stay in La Libertad or go a little further down the beach to some of the smaller beach towns and check out the surf. Oddly, La Libertad and El Salvador were the only places I was sure I didn't want to go to in Central America because of their reputation for crime...
If someone reading this can translate the surf report for me, what does 5ft 12 seconds mean in terms of actual wave size? I am thinking 5-6 feet face?
After that, I will return to San Salvador for a bus to Managua, Nicaragua.
on a side note, I was walking down a hot dusty street on my way home after the haircut and I hear coming from one of the streetside vendors, Lady Gaga’s Bad Romance and a spanish cover of IZ’s version of Somewhere Over the Rainbow.
Tikal Photos


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Flores and Tikal
After that restless night, I relaxed all day in the hostel, just hanging out. There isn't much to do in Flores, basically, everyone is here for the Mayan ruins at Tikal. I went on my second morning . I had to wake up at 4am after getting just a couple of hours of sleep. Caught a shuttle to Tikal for Q60 and hiked around beautiful Mayan ruins for a five hours and caught the shuttle back. I was pretty exhausted and had developed a painful sore throat by then.
I wasn't planning to stay for so long, but I decided to stay and recuperate at the hostel and enjoy the delicous healthy food while I can. Buses to El Salvador leave at 6am in the morning, so I didn't want to deal with being sick and waking up early and dealing with a city like San Salvador after riding a bus for 9 hours .
Friday, July 9, 2010
Semuc Champey
It was probably the best decision I've made so far. Semuc is unbelievable. When I finally got there, I realized I had no idea what to expect, I literally didn't know what to expect because I never saw pictures or got a good description of the pools at Semuc. I just knew that the place was a must-see destination so I went.
I took a guided tour the first day i went out. The guide started us off with swinging into a river from a rope swing. It was a solid 15 feet at the apex of the swing into the river. Then he took us into an underground cave-river system. This part I did hear about earlier so I was looking forward to it. It was probably one of the hightlights of my trip. It involved swimming/wading up an underground river with only a candle as our light source. At some points, the water was knee deep, at other points, we literally had to swim with one hand and keep our candle above water with the other hand. There were bats at the entrance of the cave. further in we had to climb up a small waterfall, at the end of the trek we jumped off a cliff into a tiny underground pool. It was a trip.
after the cave expedition, the guide took us to a big yellow bridge and jumped off it. it was 10 meters to the water. the other guys in the group jumped it, but I learned my lesson from the basketball incident. I decided that jumping off it would have been a stupid risk, as much as i wanted to do it.
after the bridge we walked to Semuc Champey proper. we hiked up a mountain to a lookout and I saw semuc for the frist time and i realized then that it was a series of terraced, cascading, turqoise pools. We hiked back down and got to the pools. You could start at the highest pool and swim your way down to the end. you could jump, dive, swim, crawl, walk your way down all the seperate pools. It was nestled in a moutain ravine, the water was clean and cool. it was amazing.



Antigua to Coban to Lanquin
I used to hate flying, but these shuttle buses make me yearn for economoy seats on an airplane.
Never has the expression, "I need leg room, I don't need to stare at the back of a pretty girl's head" been more true than on a 7 hour shuttle ride from Lanquin to Flores. The only good to come out of these shuttle rides is the fact that whatever weakness I had for motion sickness has been wrung out of me on these winding mountain roads.
So, we went from Antigua to Coban to Lanquin. Lanquin is this tiny little town in the middle of nowhere. But it is the nearest town to Shemuc Champey. I stayed at a highly recommened hostel called Zephyr. It was a cool thatch roof place on a hillside with great views and cool people and good food. beds were Q35 a nite, but they get you with the food and drinks. food and drinks for three meals could cost you over a Q100 easy. They had great music though, and we had a movie nite, we watched Snatch. "d'ya lek dags?"
Who needs to travel with an MP3 player? So far I've heard everything from Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds, to Nofx, to green day, to Juno sountrack, Kimya Dawson, Cream, the Cure, and so much more. I've heard better music than I have back home.
The last 11km to Lanquin is a very bumpy white gravel road into the valley. From Lanquin, it is a 9km bumpy gravel road to Semuc Champey.
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Friday, July 2, 2010
Pacaya Volcano



Though I didn't get to see live lava, and didn't get to take a picture of me lighting a cigar in the lava, Pacaya was still cool. It was really eerie walking thought the forest because all the trees are dead and the ground is covered in black volcanic ash that crunches as your foot sinks into it.
Random Thoughts
- New drinking game: everytime your bus driver passes a car around a blind curve, you take a shot. Everytime he passes a car around a blind curve going uphill, you take two shots and say a quick prayer.
- Met a spanish girl during the Pacaya Volcano hike, we had dinner and I found out she took peyote and mushrooms and wandered among Maya ruins in Mexico. So jealous. She brought out a book to use as scratch paper, it was a book by Carlos Castaneda. So, we ate sandwhiches and soup and talked about Ahyuoasca. Marlon would have liked her.
Antigua: Home Sweet Home
On a similar note, I was chatting with this woman at my favorite bar, and since I seemed like I was familiar with the bar and the town, she asked if I "lived here". I was flattered. Someone actually thought I was a local, feels good man. The thrill of localism.