Monday, March 12, 2012
[antonym of disaster]!
success? Whatever the word is, I got to surf. I met a cool italian surfer dude who showed me a secret surf shop with proper boards and the best burgers in town (the awesome local woman who owns the shop was awesome). I went out to the beach break in front of the shop and caught one good head high wave. The conditions weren't that great, the winds were still mucking things up and I was out of shape and hungover but it was fun, I was surfing in Vietnam.
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