Jaisalmer: "We were somewhere on the edge of the desert..."

I turned a corner in Jodphur. I began to see the India I expected when I got lost in the back alleys of that blue city. I received more acts of kindness and welcome in one day there than I did in weeks in dharamsala and delhi.

Now I am in Jaisalmer and I think I am where I need to be. Bhang shops, motorcycle rentals and camel safaris are all possibilities here.